There are many dangerous and toxic ingredients that
can be found in our skin care products, and it’s hard to make sense of them all
without having a chemistry background! In addition, every country also seems to
have their own regulations for the use of these substances, which makes the
situation even more confusing if you’re buying products across borders. In
Canada for example we rely strongly on the testing and standards laid out by
the FDA in the US, which at times can be driven strongly by political issues
and funding. The European Union has stronger regulations on many of these
chemicals, and we often refer to their findings when it comes to Health Canada
regulations and legislation.
There is still much debate over many of these
substances, and the studies are often contradictory. We are left to our own
devices to decide whether we want to take these risks, and it is therefore
important to have SOME understanding of these substances and how they are
listed on our cosmetics and beauty products. The David Suzuki Foundation has
done an amazing job compiling a list of the dirty dozen cosmetic ingredients
and the studies associated with them. Here is a list of the more common (and
harmful) ingredients that you should look to avoid from that research!
Phthalates
(dibutyl phthalate, or DBP): These hormone disruptors can be found in
nail products and solvents, but they may also be part of a perfume or fragrance
included within a product (without having to be listed!). DBP is absorbed
through the skin and is known to cause genetic mutations. In lab testing DBP
caused problems with reproduction, and caused harm to the unborn fetus. When
very young children put products with DBP in their mouths for extended periods
of time it was capable of causing liver and kidney failure. Phthalates have
been known to cause early puberty in children, obesity and insulin resistance
in men
Parabens:
These chemicals are often found in fragranced products (although not listed due
to trade secrets) and are also widely used as preservatives (methylparaben; butylparaben;
ethylparaben), and are known to be both hormone disruptors and to affect male
fertility (due to its ability to specifically mimic the hormone estrogen).
Parabens have been found in breast cancer tissue, suggesting a possible link
between parabens in cosmetics and cancers. Currently there is no regulation in
Canada in regards to its use, but internationally there are stronger
regulations.
Fragrance/Parfum:
There are several thousand chemicals that can be used to make a fragrance or
parfum, none of which have to be individually listed in an ingredient list, and
any of which may be a source of irritation or toxicity. Interestingly, even
‘unscented’ products may contain a fragrance and then include an agent that
masks the fragrance by tricking your olfactory system into not detecting it!
Fragrances of any kind are often triggers for individuals with multiple
chemical sensitivities, allergies and asthma, and are implicated in triggering
asthma in children. Some fragrances are known to ‘bio-accumulate’ in fatty
tissues, which can then trigger sensitivities, cause neuro-toxicity, and some
are even implicated in a variety of cancers. Certain fragrances are combines
with agents such as phthalates which enhance their performance. As discussed
earlier, phthalates are implicated in a variety of hormonal-disruptive
conditions.
BHA/BHT: (butylated
hydroxyanisole and hydroyxytoluene) This synthetic preservative is used in
moisturizers, lipsticks and foods. It is a suspected endocrine disruptor
(mimics estrogen and supresses male hormone output) and linked to tumor
formation. Harmful to wildlife. Flagged for future assessment it goes
unregulated in Canada, but European Union guidelines prohibit its use. The
state of California requires warning labels on products that use BHA.
Petrolatum:
Otherwise known as ‘mineral oil’ or ‘petroleum jelly’ this ingredient is used
as a moisture barrier or to ‘lock in’ moisture. It is found in moisturizers,
lip balms and hair products to create gloss or shine. Petrolatum containing
products are often contaminated with polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH), implicated
in irritations, allergies and cancers. The European Union has banned their use
in cosmetics, but Canadian regulations are only in the works.
SLS (Sodium
Laureth Sulfate): Added to soaps, bubble baths and cleansers to make them
foam and bubble. Often contains ethylene oxide and dioxane, which is linked to
reproductive disruption and certain cancers. These substances also take a long
time to degrade and therefore are persistent in our environment once flushed
down the drain. These substances are banned from use in cosmetics by Health
Canada, however the substances in which they are found are not adequately
screened for their
DEA
(diethanolamine): Used to make cosmetics more creamy, sudsy and foamy and
also as a pH balancer to decrease the acidity of the product. Look for them in
moisturizers, sunscreens, shampoos and cleansers (lauryl DEA and cocamide DEA).
DEA can react to form a product called nitrosamine, which is linked to cancers
(this often happens when the nitrate-containing preservatives in cosmetics
begin to degrade). DEA is also a skin and eye irritant and is toxic to
wildlife. Health Canada has categorized them as "moderate human health
priorities” and has flagged them for future research, however they go
unregulated in Canada. The European Union has stronger regulations on their
use, restricting their concentration in cosmetics.
Formaldehyde
Releasing Ingredients: (DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea,
methenamine, quaternium-15, and sodium hydroxymethylglycinate) These preservatives
release formaldehyde slowly and cause off-gassing which is inhaled. The
inhalation of formaldehyde is linked to cancer, and although in Canada the use
of formaldeyde is prohibited, the use of these preservatives is not. Other
countries require warning labels when these preservatives are used.
Siloxanes:
This is a substance most people wouldn’t think to look for, and it comes under
several different names – they are all from the ‘silicone’ family (dimethicone,
cyclomethicone, any ingredient ending with "‘siloxane’). They are used to
create a smoothness and silkiness to products, and it helps products like
deodorants ‘slide one’ more easily. Several variants of the siloxane family
have shown to have carcinogenic potential (uterine tumors), affect both
fertility and immunity, and bio-accumulate in the environment (aquatic
wildlife).
PEG
compounds: (polyethylene glycols)
These potentially cancer causing agents are found in many cream bases, creating
a creaminess to the product and increasing it’s absorption. Unfortunately PEG
compounds are not regulated in Canada, and are often contaminated by several
other restricted substances, making them dangerous in our cosmetics.
Triclosan:
This preservative and anti-bacterial agent is
in many products such as soaps, deodorants, hand sanitizers, facial tissues and
many household items such as toys, linens and garbage bags! It’s use is causing
wide-spread bacterial antibiotic resistance and is harming wildlife due to its
widespread use and accumulation in our environment. Triclosan easily absorbs
through the skin and can be found in the urine of nearly 75% of our population!
Although Health Canada limits it’s use to 3% of a cosmetics ingredients, due to
its widespread use these seemingly small percentages are adding up!
Coal
tar dyes: p-phenylenediamine and
colours listed as "CI" followed by a five digit number (in the 75000 and 77000 series,
respectively). This is a tricky area
because some natural pigments are also given these number codes. In the US
the
colour name may also be listed (e.g. "FD&C
Blue No. 1" or "Blue 1"). These pigments are more prevalent in
the darker hair dyes, and are derivatives from petroleum manufacturing, which
is linked to certain cancers.
References:
We know our kids don't get the same amount of minerals as past generations have - our food unfortunately is not grown in the same mineral-rich soils (over-harvesting and over-production), processed foods and grains which have stripped the nutrients from our food, the hybridization of grains that have changed their composition, and having moved away from our traditional nourishing diets (organ meats, bone broths, unpasteurized milk, healthy fats etc).
